Sensory Training Article

Sensory Training

Whether you call it bomb-proofing, sensory training, desensitizing, or sacking out, teaching a horse to react to a variety of stimulus and scary incidents is an important process for all riders.

Those who ride trails usually do more training in this regard than do those who compete in arena sports. But I can attest to the fact that both types of riders should conduct this type of training. It is amazing to me when I see a $100,000 horse that has received countless hours of training “blow-up” as they pass a flapping flag or a decoration moving from the wind on the way into the arena. What amazes me more is this; when I suggest some sensory training, many of the riders and trainers dismiss is as unnecessary and simply blame it on “the temperament of the horse.” Really?

I have worked with many different horses. They have come in all sizes, colors, breeds, and temperaments and I can guarantee one thing: they all benefit and can improve their overall performance from sensory training.

Whether your horse is a trail horse or a competition horse, having them “blow-up” is not a pleasant experience.

There are many ways to work with a horse in an attempt to get them to handle a variety of obstacles and scary objects. Some people force the horse through the situation. Some people use treats/rewards. Some people try to trick the horse into doing things. However, few do what I do.

My main technique is to play with the horse and the obstacles. How do you play with a horse using a flag, or a tarp or a ball? It is actually quite easy.

First, you have to make sure that your horse will listen to you on the ground. If your horse has poor ground manners, and will not listen to your direction at the best of times, then you will have a tough time directing the horse at the worst of times. Therefore, the number one training issue is to make sure that you can direct your horse on the ground with your lead rope and halter.

Second, gather several obstacles such as a tarp, trash can, or ball and place them in the training area (be it an arena or round pen, or even just a fenced-in area). Now go get your horse.

Third, walk your horse into the arena. I have had horses slam on the brakes at the arena gate because they could see a tarp lying on the ground. If this happens, just hang out for a few minutes and rub on the horse. Tell them in a calming voice to relax, that they are good, and rub on them. Take your time. Once you are in the arena, it is time to go to work.

Fourth, walk around the arena avoiding the obstacles. That is right -- just avoid them. Ignore them. Walk your horse around giving the obstacles a wide berth. Do not stare at them, do not try to walk up to them, and do not approach them. Walk to a place in the arena and do some simple groundwork. Do the groundwork until the horse is paying more attention to you than the new obstacles. You need to let your horse know that just because there is something there does not mean that he should not be listening to you. You can expect your horse to be less than attentive at first. However, if your horse knows his groundwork he will soon pay more attention to you.

Fifth, take another walk and get a little closer to the obstacles. Walk around ignoring the obstacles and show your horse that they do not bother you and that your horse does not need to be bothered by them either. As your horse settles, you can think about approaching an obstacle.

Sixth, approach the obstacle. When I do this I can usually feel the horse holding back and I just let out a little of the lead line. Maybe the horse is six feet behind me when I finally walk up to the ball. I might just sit on the ball at this time and look at my horse. Usually after a few minutes, the horse will start to approach you. When they do, I simply let them and then pet on them. When I get up from the ball, the horse will usually jump back as they see the ball move. Again, I just let them go. I will usually walk up to them and pet them, and then walk back to the ball and begin to roll it away from the horse. At this point, the horse is often five to six feet back, and then I start to kick the ball and let the horse follow me. If the horse pulls back, then I simply brace a little to get the horse to stop and then I start forward again. Usually when I kick the ball the horse is surprised at first and then curious. For the next five minutes, I will just kick the ball around and let the horse follow me. I have never had a horse not become curious about the ball. Usually in less than ten minutes, I have a horse with his nose on the ball. Then the fun starts, and in the next few minutes the horse will begin to understand that they can push the ball with their nose or kick it with their feet. For those of you who have seen my demonstrations at an expo, you know that I often kick the ball hard and run after it. I run so hard that some horses have had to canter to keep up.

When it comes to a flag, I often do something similar. I start by carrying it quietly as I lead the horse, then I begin to wave it from side to side as I walk. I do not face the horse; I simply walk along waving the flag back and forth. I begin to tap things like walls or the ball as I pass it. I raise it high and low and drag it. I might do this for five minutes. When I feel the horse getting used to the flag and following me comfortably, I pause and turn towards the horse with the flag. During this time, I do not try to “confront” the horse with the flag nor wave it around, as much as I try to make them understand that it has nothing to do with them. Before long, I can wave the flag while standing closer to the horse and then even touch the horse with it. Over time I can then face them and wave the flag around quite aggressively.

The problem with most “sensory” programs is that people try too hard. They put so much pressure on the horse they often “blow-it-up” before they have taught the horse it does not have to be scared of the object.

Try giving play a try -- you may be surprised at the results.